Tuesday, August 16, 2011

Happiness from Onions

I ran across this today and thought you all would like it. I did.

  Onions

By William Matthews
How easily happiness begins by   
dicing onions. A lump of sweet butter   
slithers and swirls across the floor   
of the saut√© pan, especially if its   
errant path crosses a tiny slick
of olive oil. Then a tumble of onions.

This could mean soup or risotto   
or chutney (from the Sanskrit
chatni, to lick). Slowly the onions   
go limp and then nacreous
and then what cookbooks call clear,   
though if they were eyes you could see

clearly the cataracts in them.
It’s true it can make you weep
to peel them, to unfurl and to tease   
from the taut ball first the brittle,   
caramel-colored and decrepit
papery outside layer, the least

recent the reticent onion
wrapped around its growing body,   
for there’s nothing to an onion
but skin, and it’s true you can go on   
weeping as you go on in, through   
the moist middle skins, the sweetest

and thickest, and you can go on   
in to the core, to the bud-like,   
acrid, fibrous skins densely   
clustered there, stalky and in-
complete, and these are the most   
pungent, like the nuggets of nightmare

and rage and murmury animal   
comfort that infant humans secrete.   
This is the best domestic perfume.   
You sit down to eat with a rumor
of onions still on your twice-washed   
hands and lift to your mouth a hint

of a story about loam and usual   
endurance. It’s there when you clean up   
and rinse the wine glasses and make   
a joke, and you leave the minutest   
whiff of it on the light switch,
later, when you climb the stairs.

2 comments:

  1. i cooked brats tonight and boiled them in a nice hoppy ale with lots of onions before grilling them. the smell of the beer, seasoned beef, and onions is still filling the house. i know that sauteed onions have a great aroma, but let's not overlook the special magic that happens when you throw them together with some beer and sausages.

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  2. Good point Hardy. Part of the beauty of onions cooking in butter is what will become of them. You're building the foundation for perfect brats, beurre blanc, any stock or soup, kung pao chicken or a red wine tomato sauce. This is indeed the best domestic perfume. And I wear it proudly.

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