I ran across this today and thought you all would like it. I did.
Onions
How easily happiness begins by
dicing onions. A lump of sweet butter
slithers and swirls across the floor
of the sauté pan, especially if its
errant path crosses a tiny slick
of olive oil. Then a tumble of onions.
This could mean soup or risotto
or chutney (from the Sanskrit
chatni, to lick). Slowly the onions
go limp and then nacreous
and then what cookbooks call clear,
though if they were eyes you could see
clearly the cataracts in them.
It’s true it can make you weep
to peel them, to unfurl and to tease
from the taut ball first the brittle,
caramel-colored and decrepit
papery outside layer, the least
recent the reticent onion
wrapped around its growing body,
for there’s nothing to an onion
but skin, and it’s true you can go on
weeping as you go on in, through
the moist middle skins, the sweetest
and thickest, and you can go on
in to the core, to the bud-like,
acrid, fibrous skins densely
clustered there, stalky and in-
complete, and these are the most
pungent, like the nuggets of nightmare
and rage and murmury animal
comfort that infant humans secrete.
This is the best domestic perfume.
You sit down to eat with a rumor
of onions still on your twice-washed
hands and lift to your mouth a hint
of a story about loam and usual
endurance. It’s there when you clean up
and rinse the wine glasses and make
a joke, and you leave the minutest
whiff of it on the light switch,
later, when you climb the stairs.
i cooked brats tonight and boiled them in a nice hoppy ale with lots of onions before grilling them. the smell of the beer, seasoned beef, and onions is still filling the house. i know that sauteed onions have a great aroma, but let's not overlook the special magic that happens when you throw them together with some beer and sausages.
ReplyDeleteGood point Hardy. Part of the beauty of onions cooking in butter is what will become of them. You're building the foundation for perfect brats, beurre blanc, any stock or soup, kung pao chicken or a red wine tomato sauce. This is indeed the best domestic perfume. And I wear it proudly.
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